Parkside Demo Derby Car Rules

Full-Size Car Demolition Derby Rules And Regulations: 

The safety of spectators, officials, drivers and pit crew is our main concern. Fire, flying debris and impact injuries are among our concerns so please keep this in mind when building and working on your vehicles. ● Open to any make or model of car except the following: Convertibles, T-tops, Ambulances, Hearses, El Caminos, Rancheros, 1973 and older Chrysler Imperials. This includes the use of Imperial sub frames. No pre 1970 Lincolns.

MANDATORY STRIPPING OF ALL CARS
1. The driver's side of the car must have a MINIMUM lap safety belt but preferably one lap belt and one shoulder belt.
2. All glass must be removed, no broken glass inside doors.
3. All body trim, hub caps, exterior ornaments and lights must be removed.
4. All interior upholstery (all flammable materials), including plastic wheel wells under the hood, door panels, carpets and trims must be removed.
5. Trailer hitches must be removed; this includes all mounting hardware.
6. Dash must be removed. (fuel injected cars may leave necessary components to run)
7. You must remove the inside spare tire compartment lid from station wagons.
8. Any seat may be used but must be securely mounted.
9. All airbags must be removed from the cars.

Body:
1. Body mount bushings may be replaced or removed. Any body bolts that are replaced can be done so with up to a max ¾” bolt. 3” washers can be added to the bolts.
2. Wheel wells may be cut out to allow clearance for bending.
3. Firewall may be cut out for distributor clearance. Large holes need to be covered with a fire- retardant material or same gauge metal. (CARPET WILL NOT BE TOLERATED)
4. Any creasing of the body panels is allowed.
5. 8 bolts max per wheel well may be used to fasten inner and outer sheet metal. Maximum size 3/8” bolts can be used.
6. Rotten floors may be replaced and tack welded with the same gauge material but not in a reinforcing nature.
7. 2 vertical front window bars and 1 vertical rear window bar is allowed. Roof to speaker deck only; cannot be tied to trunk,cage or halo bar in any way.
8. Window bars must be bolted.
9. No cement reinforcement allowed anywhere on the vehicle.
10. Hard tops may have 2 side window bars acting as pillars 1 per side. Must be bolted.
11. Driver’s door MUST be white. The rest of the car must be a contrasting color. No, all white cars are allowed. NOTE: Numbers must be in contrasting colors and must be on BOTH the drivers and passenger FRONT doors, at least 18” high and 2” wide. Painted on the roof is optional.
12. Roof signs are allowed but must be secured.

Doors and Cage:
1. Doors must be either chained, bolted or welded. Welding: You may use ½’’ max round bar or 2” x 3/16 flat bar to fill the gap. 6’’ weld, 6’’ gap, repeat. Bolting: Maximum 1 ¼’’ bolts. Chaining: Maximum ⅜’’ chain. EXTERIOR DOOR BARS OR INTERIOR CAGE IS MANDATORY!
2. Interior OR exterior door bars are accepted but you are not permitted to use both.
3. Cages may be built around the driver from sturdy, easily assembled material.
4. Interior cage must be secure. The entirety of the cage must remain 4” from the firewall, floor and rear package tray. 4 down bars may be used but must only attach to floor pans and must not sit on or directly above frame rails. MAX base is 6”x6”. Tying the cage to the frame in any way is NOT permitted.
5. The door bars may be a MINIMUM 2”x6”, or a MAX 2”x12”. 76” MAX length on the outside door panels and may not enter into the wheel wells.
6. Outside door bars can extend 8” max ahead of the front fender, but not overlapping the wheel well.
7. It is mandatory that the corners of the door bars be beveled to eliminate the sharp corners.
8. Exterior bars must bolt through the entire door/post, not just the inner door skin.
9. NO I-BEAM OR GRADER BLADES WILL BE ALLOWED.
10. Dash bars and rear cross support bars are mandatory for driver safety.
11. Maximum end plates on the inside of your vehicle for cross support is 12”x12” by ½ thick which supports the outside of the door bars. Cross supports may be pipe or square tubing between 2” and 8“ ( in front and behind driver)
12. Vertical post is mandatory. A vertical post may be used behind the driver’s seat to protect the driver against the collapse of your vehicle. It must be bolted to the roof and the floor or welded securely to the rear cross support.
13.HALO BARS may be used as an option instead of the vertical post bar, but must not be attached to the frame in any way. This must be attached to the roof of the car and also the cage or rear cross support only.

Hood & Trunk:
1. HOODS: Must be secured in any combination of one or all 3 of the following. Chained, bolted, or welded.
A. Chained: 6 places only, options: rad support, fender, or wheel well. Using 1 wrap of chain, ⅜’’ max. B. Bolted: 6 places only max. 1 ¼’’ options: rad support, fender, or wheel well. You may use (2) maximum threaded rods through the frame to support the hood. Max washer size 6”x6”.
C. Welding: (between hood and fender only) You may use ½’’ max round bar or 2” x 3/16 flat bar to fill the gap. 6’’ weld, 6’’ gap, repeat. No fully welded hoods. You may use two pieces of 2”x2”x6” long angle iron welded to the body and hood then bolted together with 2 bolts. Maximum bolt size is 3/8”. Angle iron may not be welded across the seam. Maximum of 6 places.
D. You must have a hole to extinguish fires. If head tech deems the hole is not big enough, you will be subject to cutting a proper size hole for extinguishing fires. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!
E. Maximum (16) -⅜ bolts to be fasten the area around the hood cutouts to hold together.
F. Hood tucking is allowed.

2. TRUNKS: Must be secured in any combination of one or all 3 of the following. Chained, bolted, or welded.
A. Chained: 4 places only, ⅜’’ max.
B. Bolted: 4 places only, option: You may use (2) maximum 1 ¼’’ threaded rods through the frame to support the trunk lid. Max washer size 6”x6”.
C. Welding: You may use ½’’ max round bar or 2” x 3/16 flat bar to fill the gap. 6’’ weld, 6’’ gap, repeat. No fully welded trunks. Trunks must be totally accessible for inspection. You may use two pieces of 2”x2”x6” long angle iron welded to the body and trunk then bolted together with 2 bolts. Maximum bolt size is 3/8”. Angle iron may not be welded across the seam. Maximum of 4 places.
D. Canoeing the trunk is allowed; provided the following is adhered to: -THE ENTIRETY OF THE SPEAKER DECK HEIGHT REMAINS AS IT WAS FROM FACTORY. -TAIL LIGHTS REMAIN VERTICAL AS THEY WERE FROM FACTORY.
E. Trunk tucking is allowed.
F. Wedging/Sedagoning your car is NOT allowed. This includes wagons, you cannot compact your trunk all the way down to your frame rails.

Engines:
1. ALL SWITCHES MUST BE CLEARLY LABELED. NO LEFT TO RIGHT SWITCHES. MUST BE UP AND DOWN.
2. Engine swapping is allowed. Engines must be mounted within 4’’ of the original mounts. Any mounting of the engine will be allowed provided it does not reinforce the car in any way. You may chain the engine.
3. Headers or exhaust manifolds are mandatory and must either exit below under the car behind the driver, or header upright pipes must stick up past the hood minimum of 4’’.
4. Engine guards or full engine cradles are not allowed.
5. Distributor protectors, and pulley protectors are not allowed
6. -Lower engine cradles will be permitted but must not attach to the frame. Must only be attached to the crossmember or saddle.
7. Engine must have an air cleaner.
8. No skid plates allowed.
9. No starting fluid allowed

Transmission:
1. You may use any type of mount. If not using a factory cross member you may use maximum 2”x2” square tubing.
2. You may use any type of transmission cooler, but must be securely fastened inside the passenger compartment.
3. Transmission lines must be metal or braided. No fuel or low pressure hose allowed. Must be double clamped when tying together metal and transmission hose. All lines in the cab must be covered.
4. You may run a fan or a cooler with ice.
5. Tranny coolers must be covered and secure.
6. Slip yolks (sliders) are allowed.
7. Transmission protectors will not be permitted.
8. Any foot/brake pedal is allowed.
9. Any type of shifter may be used but must not strengthen the car in either way.

Radiator & Core Support:
1. No Custom radiators. Aluminum radiators are allowed.
2. Radiator must remain in stock position.
3. Any rad hoses looped must have a pressure relief system in place.
4. Antifreeze must be drained and replaced with water.
5. No supplemental cooling devices are allowed.
6. Top radiator support may be removed and either bungeed or ratchet strapped.
7. Any cooling fan is allowed.
8. 2 core support spacers 3”x 6” tall are allowed.

Gas Tank:
1. ENSURE YOU HAVE NO FUEL LEAKS. IF AT ANY TIME, YOU HAVE FUEL LEAKING ANYWHERE, YOU WILL BE DISQUALIFIED UNTIL PROPER REPAIRS CAN BE MADE!!!!!!
2. Stock fuel tank must be removed.
3. Gas tank must be securely fastened behind the driver’s seat.
4. Any fuel tanks may be used and must be secured.
5. Plastic tanks WILL BE PERMITTED. BUT MUST BE INSIDE A STEEL BOX.
6. Fuel cells are allowed. 5-7 gallons max.
7. Tank mounting MUST NOT reinforce the car in any way.
8. Fuel lines must be protected.
9. Electric fuel pumps may be used, but must be automotive.
10. Electric fuel pumps must have a clearly marked shut off switch.
11. Fuel lines must be double clamped at both ends.(If using rubber line)

Tires & Brakes:
1. You may run any type of air-filled tire. Maximum 16” rim. Maximum 14 ply.
2. Maximum 8” welded wheel centers are permitted to allow for different bolt patterns. No fully weld in centers.
3. Narrowed rims are allowed.
4. No split rims, no studded tires, solid, foam or water filled tires allowed.
5. Flapper tires are allowed. Double tires will also be allowed.
6. All wheel weights must be removed.
7. Valve stem protectors are allowed.
8. Bead protectors are not allowed.
9. If using floor mounted pedals, they must not strengthen the car at all or it will be cut.
10. Any type of braking system or configuration is allowed. Brakes must be in working condition before the start of any heat. THIS WILL BE CHECKED. If you are unable to get brakes working before a heat, YOU WILL NOT RUN.

Batteries:
1. You may run a maximum of two 12V batteries.
2. Batteries must be securely fastened in the front passenger seat area.
3. ALL batteries must be covered.
4. Must be in a secure battery box.
5. Mounting of the batteries or box must not reinforce the car or be attached to the frame in any way.

Front Suspension & Steering:
1. Any steering column is accepted.
2. All steering from steering box to wheels must remain stock.
3. Steering rag joint may be replaced with u-joints.
4. No coil spring spacers, or boosters.
5. You may weld upper control arms (a-arms) to the frame 2” x 4” x ¼” flat bar straps, 2 straps per arm.

Rear Differential:
1. Differential swaps are allowed.
2. Must use the car’s stock mounting brackets.
3. No added bracing to differentials will be allowed.
4. Only 5 bolt axel’s will be allowed
5. Truck differentials will NOT be allowed in cars. (No ¾ ton of 1 ton differentials)
6. No floating rear ends
7. Differential gears may be welded.
8. Trailing arms and links cannot be modified or reinforced in any way.

Rear Suspension:
1. 98-Newer Vic can run the WATTS conversion kit but must be mounted as close to the factory as possible (one pass weld).
2. Car must stay in the shock, leaf type. Coils stay coils. Leafs stay leafs.
3. Shocks must remain stock and mounted in stock position.
4. Coil springs may be bolted or welded to the upper and lower mount points (so coil springs don’t pop out).
5. Coils may be doubled and clamped, chained or wired together. But NOT welded together.
6. NO coil spring spacers, or boosters.
7. You may clamp your leaf springs,maximum 4 clamps per side (8 total). ⅜ max thickness, 2 ½ max width. No welding of spring packs.
8. 10 leaf max. Leafs must have a 2” stagger, 3/8” max thickness, 2 ½’’ max width.
9. No flat sprung cars
10. Chaining the rear end through the body and around the frame of your vehicle is allowed with 1 wrap per axle with ⅜ chain, 2 chain’s max.

Bumpers:
1. To help prevent hook-ups, bumpers can be cut, but leaving no sharp edges. Push shocks may be welded solid and push shocks may be welded to the bumper.
2. Front and rear bumpers may be secured by using one wrap of 3/8" chain, two places per bumper max, with four places total.
3. Straps 3” wide x 3/16 thick straps from bumper to hood or core support. Two straps per bumper. 4. Bumper swaps are allowed between any make or model.
5. No Truck Bumpers.
6. Hard nosing is allowed. 1 piece of 2’’ x 2’’ x 4’’ long angle iron on the outside of the frame may be used.
7. You may weld bumper shocks and weld shock brackets to frame.
8. Custom/homemade bumpers will NOT be allowed.
9. You can bend over and hammer down your bumper skins (chrome on bumper) and stitch weld your bumper skins to your bumper 6’’ weld 6’’ no weld. If tech suspects material added under the chrome you may be asked to cut open chrome for inspection.
10. 22 inch max on the front bumper height to the bottom of the bumper .
11. Front bumpers must remain on the front.
12. Front bumpers on the rear are not permitted.
13. Bumperettes MUST be removed.

Frame:
1. NO SEAM WELDING ALLOWED
2. You may notch, dimple or cold bend your frame.
3. Absolutely NO welding, plating/pinning humps on fresh cars, stuffing the frame, checker plating allowed.Techs will check for loaded and modified frames.
4. TILTING: *You may tilt 1980 newer Ford cars at the crush box under the firewall or at the trans crossmember. You must only cut the factory weld, tilt the frame, then reweld the seam with a max 3/8” bead. No additional material or other welding allowed. You must provide officials with picture evidence at the time of inspection of work completed. Any 1977 newer GM product and any 1980 newer Mopar product may be tilted at the trans crossmember. Frames may be notched, tilted and welded back up with 1 pass max 3/8” bead. No added materials allowed. ANY MORE THAN ONE PASS YOU WILL BE DISQUALIFIED AND NOT COMPETE.*
5. You may close Y frames by either welding it closed with a maximum ⅛ inch metal on the top and bottom of the Y or the driver may use two 1’’ bolts.
6. Mopar subframes may be swapped between Y frame and shocker cars. You are NOT allowed to swap imperial subs.

FRAME REPAIRS: May repair the frame only as followed: (Must be painted orange)
- You may repair rusted frames on your car with MAX ⅛ inch plating. You may go 1 inch past frame damage. A hole must be drilled in the middle of the plate to determine thickness.
- The same gauge metal is recommended. No full wraps.
- You must send photo evidence of RUST REPAIR needed to head tech which will have to be pre approved.

Pre Rans: May repair the frame in 8 places only as followed: (Must be painted yellow)
- You must send photo evidence of FRAME DAMAGE and you must send photo evidence of FRAME REPAIR to head tech which will have to be pre approved.

In Front Of The Firewall
- Four Total 4’’x 6’’ x 1/4 plates. On the outer frame on either the drivers side or passenger side frames a hole must be drilled in the middle of the plate to determine thickness.

Rear Wheel Hump Back
- Four Total 4’’x 6’’ x 1/4 plates. On the outer frame on either the drivers side or passenger side frames a hole must be drilled in the middle of the plate to determine thickness.

HEAD TECHS DECISION WILL BE FINAL