Parkside Demo Derby Car Rules

Full-Size Car Demolition Derby Rules And Regulations: (Rev 2– Nov 2025)

- The safety of spectators, officials, drivers and pit crew is our main concern. Fire, flying debris and impact injuries are among our concerns so please keep this in mind when building and working on your vehicles.
● Open to any make or model of car except the following: Convertibles, T-tops, Ambulances, Hearses, El Caminos, Rancheros, 1973 and older Chrysler Imperials. This includes the use of Imperial sub frames. No pre 1970 Lincolns.

MANDATORY STRIPPING OF ALL CARS
1. Drivers must have a working seatbelt. Lap safety belt minimum.
2. All glass must be removed, no broken glass inside doors.
3. All body trim, hub caps, exterior ornaments and lights must be removed.
4. All interior upholstery (all flammable materials), including plastic wheel wells under the hood, door panels, carpets and trims must be removed.
5. Trailer hitches must be removed; this includes all mounting hardware.
6. Dash must be removed. (fuel injected cars may leave necessary components to run)
7. You must remove the inside spare tire compartment lid from station wagons.
8. Any seat may be used but must be securely mounted.
9. All airbags must be removed from the cars.

Body:
1. Body mount bushings may be replaced or removed. Any body bolts that are replaced can be done so with up to a max ¾” bolt. 3” washers can be added to the bolts.
2. Wheel wells may be cut out to allow clearance for bending.
3. Firewall may be cut out for distributor clearance. Large holes need to be covered with a fire- retardant material or same gauge metal. (Carpet will not be tolerated)
4. Any creasing of the body panels is allowed.
5. 8 bolts max per wheel well may be used to fasten inner and outer sheet metal. Maximum size 3/8” bolts.
6. Rotten floors may be repaired with the same gauge material but not in a reinforcing nature.
7. 2 vertical front window bars and 1 vertical rear window bar is allowed. Roof to speaker deck only; cannot be tied to trunk,cage or halo bar in any way.
8. Window bars can be bolted or welded.
9. No cement reinforcement allowed anywhere on the vehicle.
10. Hard tops may have 2 side window bars acting as pillars; 1 per side. (Bolted or welded).
11. The driver's door must be white. The rest of the car must be a contrasting color. No, all white cars are allowed. Numbers must be on BOTH the drivers and passenger FRONT doors.
12. Roof signs are allowed but must be secured.

Doors and Cage: **Absolutely no grader blades allowed anywhere on the car**
1. Doors must be either chained, bolted or welded. Welding: You may use ½’’ max round bar or 2” x 3/16 flat bar to fill the gap. 6’’ weld, 6’’ gap, repeat. Bolting: Maximum 1 ¼’’ bolts. Chaining: Maximum ⅜’’ chain. EXTERIOR DOOR BARS OR INTERIOR CAGE IS MANDATORY!
2. Interior or exterior door bars are accepted but you are NOT permitted to use both. I-Beam NOT allowed for exterior door bars.
3. Cages may be built around the driver from sturdy, easily assembled material.
4. A ¼” thick driver's door skin is allowed but must be secure.(Bolted or fully seam welded. The skin can be 1 inch max past door seams.
5. Interior cages must be secure. The cage must remain 4” from the firewall, floor and rear package tray. Four down bars may be used but must only attach to floor pans. MAX base is 6”x6”. Tying the cage to the frame in any way is NOT permitted.
6. The door bars may be a MINIMUM 2”x6”, or a MAX 2”x12”. 76” MAX length on the outside door panels and may not enter into the wheel wells.
7. Exterior door bars can extend 8” max ahead of the front fender, but not overlapping the wheel well.
8. The corners of exterior door bars MUST be beveled to eliminate sharp corners.
9. Exterior bars must bolt through the entire door/post, not just the inner door skin.
10. Dash bars and rear cross support bars are mandatory for driver safety.
11. Maximum end plates on the inside of your vehicle for cross support is 12”x12” by ½ thick which supports the outside of the door bars. Cross supports may be pipe or square tubing between 2” and 8“ ( in front and behind driver)
12. Rollover protection is mandatory. A vertical post may be used behind the driver’s seat to protect the driver against the collapse of your vehicle. It must be bolted to the roof and the floor or welded securely to the rear cross support.
13.HALO BARS may be used as an option instead of the vertical post bar, but must not be attached to the frame in any way. This must be attached to the roof of the car and also the cage or rear cross support only.

Hood & Trunk: **Hoods and trunks are not mandatory**
1. HOODS: Must be secured.
A. Chained: Max 6 places; options: rad support, fender, or wheel well. Using 1 wrap of chain, ⅜’’ max. B. Bolted: Max 6 places; 1 ¼’’ max rod; options: rad support, fender, or wheel well. You may use (2) maximum threaded rods through the frame to support the hood. Max washer size 6”x6”.
C. Welding: (between hood and fender only) You may use ½’’ max round bar or 2” x 3/16 flat bar to fill the gap. 6’’ weld, 6’’ gap, repeat. No fully welded hoods. You may use two pieces of 2”x2”x6” long angle iron welded to the body and hood then bolted together with 2 bolts. Maximum bolt size is 3/8”. Angle iron may not be welded across the seam. Maximum of 6 places.
D. You must have a hole to extinguish fires. If head tech deems the hole is not big enough, you will be cutting. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!
E. Maximum (16) -⅜ bolts to be fasten the area around the hood cutouts to hold together.
F. Hood tucking is allowed. Hood must stay above the top of the bumper.

2. TRUNKS: Must be secured.
A. Chained: Max 4 places; ⅜’’ max. One wrap.
B. Bolted: Max 4 places; You may use (2) maximum 1 ¼’’ threaded rods through the frame to support the trunk lid. Max washer size 6”x6”.
C. Welding: You may use ½’’ max round bar or 2” x 3/16 flat bar to fill the gap. 6’’ weld, 6’’ gap, repeat. No fully welded trunks. Trunks must be totally accessible for inspection. You may use two pieces of 2”x2”x6” long angle iron welded to the body and trunk then bolted together with 2 bolts. Maximum bolt size is 3/8”. Angle iron may not be welded across the seam. Maximum of 4 places.
D. Canoeing the trunk is allowed; provided the following is adhered to: -THE HEIGHT OF FRONT SPEAKER DECK REMAINS AS IT WAS FROM FACTORY. -TAIL LIGHT PANELS REMAIN VERTICAL. -TRUNK LIDS REMAIN 6” ABOVE FRAME RAILS AND FLOOR. Wedging/Sedagoning your car is NOT allowed. This includes wagons.
E. Trunk tucking is allowed.

Engines:
1. ALL SWITCHES MUST BE CLEARLY LABELED.
2. Engine swapping is allowed. Engines must be mounted within 4’’ of the original mounts. Any mounting of the engine will be allowed provided it does not reinforce the car in any way. You may chain the engine.
3. Headers or exhaust manifolds are mandatory and must either exit below the car behind the driver, or stick up above the hood.
4. Engine guards or full engine cradles are NOT allowed.
5. Distributor protectors are NOT allowed.
6. Lower engine cradles are permitted but must only be attached to the crossmember or saddle.
7. Pulley protectors are allowed.
8. Engines must have an air cleaner.
9. No skid plates allowed.
10. No starting fluid allowed

Transmission:
1. You may use any type of mount. If not using a factory cross member you may use maximum 2”x2” square tubing.
2. You may use any type of transmission cooler, but must be securely fastened inside the passenger compartment.
3. Transmission lines must be metal or braided. No fuel or low pressure hose allowed. Must be double clamped when tying together metal and transmission hose. All lines in the cab must be covered.
4. Electric cooling fans are allowed.
5. Slip yolks (sliders) are allowed.
6. Transmission protectors will be permitted. Skeleton or steel bell and tail (ultra bell), not both. 3/4 of the transmission tunnel over the protected area must be slit open (unless steel tail only). Any protectors found to be used as kickers will be subject to cutting at head techs discretion.
7. Any foot/brake pedal is allowed.
8. Any type of shifter may be used but must not strengthen the car in either way.

Radiator & Core Support:
1. No Custom radiators. Aluminum radiators are allowed.
2. Radiators must remain in stock position.
3. Any rad hoses looped must have a pressure relief system in place.
4. Antifreeze must be drained and replaced with water.
5. No supplemental cooling devices are allowed.
6. Any cooling fan is allowed.
7. 2 core support spacers 3”x 6” tall are allowed.

Gas Tank: ***ENSURE YOU HAVE NO FUEL LEAKS. IF AT ANY TIME, YOU HAVE FUEL LEAKING ANYWHERE, YOU WILL BE DISQUALIFIED***
1. Stock fuel tanks must be removed.
2. Fuel tanks must be securely fastened behind the driver’s seat.
3. Metal, aluminum or plastic tanks will be permitted. PLASTIC TANKS MUST BE PROTECTED INSIDE A STEEL BOX, NO WOODEN BOXES OR FLAMMABLE MATERIALS.
4. Fuel cells are allowed. 5-7 gallons max.
5. Tank mounting must not reinforce the car in any way.
6. Fuel lines must be protected.
7. Electric fuel pumps may be used, but must be automotive.
8. Electric fuel pumps must have a clearly marked shut off switch.
9. Fuel lines must be double clamped at both ends.(If using rubber line)

Tires & Brakes:
1. You may run any type of air-filled tire. Maximum 16” rim. Maximum 14 ply.
2. Maximum 8” welded wheel centers are permitted to allow for different bolt patterns. No fully weld-in centers.
3. Narrowed rims are allowed.
4. No split rims, no studded tires, solid, foam or water filled tires allowed.
5. Flapper tires are allowed. Double tires will also be allowed.
6. All wheel weights must be removed.
7. Valve stem protectors are allowed.
8. Bead protectors are not allowed.
9. If using floor mounted pedals, they must not strengthen the car at all or you will cut to head techs discretion.
10. Any type of braking system or configuration is allowed. Brakes must be in working condition before the start of any heat. THIS WILL BE CHECKED. If you are unable to get brakes working before a heat, YOU WILL NOT RUN.

Batteries:
1. You may run a maximum of two 12V batteries.
2. Batteries must be securely fastened in the front passenger seat area.
3. ALL batteries must be covered.
4. Must be in a secure battery box.
5. Mounting of the batteries or box must not reinforce the car or be attached to the frame in any way.

Front Suspension & Steering:
1. Any steering column is accepted.
2. All steering and suspension must remain stock, or replaced from a car that is legal for the class, without any modifications or manufactured mounts, including control arms, ball joints, spindles, hubs, center links, pitman arms, idler arms, and steering boxes.
3. Aftermarket tie-rods will be allowed, or you may use 1” angle iron welded between tie-rod ends to reinforce factory tie-rods.
4. No coil spring spacers or boosters.
5. You may chain or weld upper control arms (a-arms) to the frame 2” x 4” x ¼” flat bar straps, 2 straps per arm.

Rear Differential:
1. Any passenger vehicle differentials may be used. 8 lug max. No external bracing added to diff.
2. Must use the car’s stock mounting system.
3. NO added bracing to differentials will be allowed.
4. Differential gears may be welded.
5. Trailing arms may be lengthened or shortened. Trailing arms can be reinforced. ⅛” flat plate max.

Rear Suspension:
1. 98-Newer Vic can run the WATTS conversion kit but must be mounted as close to the factory as possible (one pass weld).
2. Coiled cars can NOT be converted to leaf springs and vice versa.
3. Shocks must remain stock and mounted in stock position.
4. Coil springs may be bolted or welded to the upper and lower mount points (so coil springs don’t pop out).
5. Coils may be doubled and clamped, chained or wired together. But NOT welded together.
6. NO coil spring spacers, or boosters.
7. You may clamp your leaf springs, maximum 4 clamps per side (8 total). ⅜ max thickness, 2 ½ max width. No welding of spring packs.
8. 10 leaf max. Leafs must have a 2” stagger, 3/8” max thickness, 2 ½’’ max width.
9. No flat sprung cars
10. Chaining the rear end through the body and around the frame of your vehicle is allowed with 1 wrap per axle with ⅜ chain, 2 chain’s max.

Bumpers:
1. To help prevent hook-ups, bumpers can be cut, but leaving no sharp edges. Push shocks may be welded solid and push shocks may be welded to the bumper.
2. Front and rear bumpers may be secured by using one wrap of 3/8" chain, two places per bumper max, with four places total.
3. Straps 3” wide x 3/16 thick straps from bumper to hood or core support. Two straps per bumper. 4. Bumper swaps are allowed between any make or model.
5. No Truck Bumpers.
6. Hard nosing is allowed. 1 piece of 4”x 8”x 1/4” flat plate may be added in replacement to the stock bumper shock brackets. If you choose to use the plate, you cannot keep the bumper shock bracket. 7. You may weld bumper shocks and weld shock brackets to frame.
8. Custom/homemade bumpers will NOT be allowed.
9. You can bend over and hammer down your bumper skins (chrome on bumper) and stitch weld your bumper skins to your bumper 6’’ weld 6’’ no weld. If tech suspects material added under the chrome you may be asked to cut for inspection.
10. 22 inch max on the front bumper height to the bottom of the bumper.
11. Front bumpers must remain on the front.
12. Front bumpers on the rear are not permitted.
13. Bumperettes MUST be removed.
14. 2”x4” (3/16”max thickness) rectangular tubing may be used for the rear bumper in place of a factory rear bumper. Tubing cannot be stuffed or capped on the ends. Hollow tubes only.

Frame: **ABSOLUTELY NO WELDING OTHER THAN WHERE STATED.**
1. You may weld the top seam only of the frame firewall forward, one pass ⅜ bead. This is only the main seam of the frame up to the backside of the a-arm mounts, and then from the front side of a-arms to the backside of the bumper/front edge of the frame. DO NOT weld around the engine saddle, the a-arm mount, the spring pocket or anywhere other than what is specified.
2. You may notch, dimple or cold bend your frame.
3. Absolutely NO pinning humps, stuffing the frame or checker plating allowed. Techs will check for loaded and modified frames.
4. TILTING: *You may tilt 1980 newer Ford cars at the crush box under the firewall or at the trans crossmember. You must only cut the factory weld, tilt the frame, then reweld the seam with a max 3/8” bead. No additional material or other welding allowed. You must provide officials with picture evidence at the time of inspection of work completed. Any 1977 newer GM product and any 1980 newer Mopar product may be tilted at the trans crossmember. Frames may be notched, tilted and welded back up with 1 pass max ⅜ ” bead. No added materials allowed. ANY MORE THAN ONE PASS YOU WILL BE DISQUALIFIED AND NOT COMPETE.*
5. You may close Y frames by either welding it closed with a maximum ⅛ inch material on the top and bottom of the Y or the driver may use two 1’’ bolts.
6. Mopar subframes may be swapped between Y frame and shocker cars. NO Imperial subs.

FRAME REPAIRS: May repair the frame only as followed:
- You may repair rusted frames on your car with MAX ⅛ inch plating. You may go 1 inch past frame damage. A hole must be drilled in the middle of the plate to determine thickness.
- The same gauge metal is recommended. No full wraps.
- You must send photo evidence of RUST REPAIR to head tech which will have to be pre approved.
- Repair plates may be manipulated or bent to conquer the frame damage. You may NOT cut plates and use the remaining portion of the plate elsewhere.

Pre Rans: May repair the frame in 10 places only as followed:
- You must send photo evidence of frame damages to head tech or gain authorization from the tech group prior to adding any plates.

Front Bumper To Hump - Six Total 4’’x 6’’ x ¼” or 3”x 7” x ¼” plates. On the outer frame on either the drivers side or passenger side frames a hole must be drilled in the middle of the plate to determine thickness.

Hump To Rear Bumper - Four Total 4’’x 6’’ x ¼” or 3” x 7” x ¼” plates. On the outer frame on either the drivers side or passenger side frames a hole must be drilled in the middle of the plate to determine thickness.

HEAD TECHS DECISION WILL BE FINAL